Mango glasses, lime ice cream and chocolate truffles

Psy­cho­lo­gists will have you believe that the quick­est way to evoke the past is to play the music you listened to between the ages of four­teen and twenty, oth­er­wise known as ‘music of your life’. The Rolling Stones, Robert Palmer, Bruce Spring­steen — pos­sibly Engel­bert Hump­erdinck if that was your thing — will all evoke memor­ies of what you were doing at a pre­cise moment in your teens. But psy­cho­lo­gists are miss­ing a trick. They should be feed­ing us the boiled sweets of our teen­age years. ‘Con­fec­tion­ery of your life’ is made up of the sher­bet lem­ons after foot­ball prac­tice, tri-col­oured lol­li­pops called ‘traffic lights’ sucked at the bus stop, kitsch pink candy shrimps in party bags, pear drops on a wintry Sunday morn­ing and, best of all, the glory known as the chocol­ate lime.

It was in memory of the liv­idly green and slightly powdery chocol­ate lime that I whipped up this pud­ding. It’s infin­itely health­i­er than its boiled sweet cous­in, although it has to be said that it’s a lot more trouble to pre­pare. But close your eyes, think of get­ting ready for that first teen­age disco with a chocol­ate lime in one cheek and high expect­a­tions in your heart. And then smile smugly to think that unlike the enamel-erod­ing boiled sweet, this pud­ding is good for you.

Frozen Mango Glasses and Lime Ice-Cream, With Bitter Chocolate Truffles on the Side

Serves 4

For the glasses

400g ripe alphonso man­gos

For the ice cream

3 limes — the juice of three of them and the zest of two

Half cup vanilla sug­ar

2 cups double cream

For the truffles

Half cup double cream

3 table­spoons golden syr­up

90g dark chocol­ate

90g milk chocol­ate

Quarter cup milled flax­seed, cocoa and ber­ries, plus more for rolling

These quant­it­ies make too much by far, but the slightly nutty truffle mix­ture is a deli­cious filling for a cake

Sprigs of mint to dec­or­ate

Pur­ee the man­goes in a blender and pour into cup-mak­ing moulds for at least 6 hours. I bought these moulds in a kit­chen sup­ply shop and although they’re rather daft, some­times a flashy trick is what you’re after.

Make the ice cream by warm­ing the lime juice and stir­ring in the sug­ar. Stir until dis­solved and add the fine zest and the cream. Cool in the fridge and then tip into your ice cream maker and fol­low the instruc­tions. Again, it makes too much for this par­tic­u­lar recipe but it keeps well.

The truffles are easy to make, although truc­u­lent and unco­oper­at­ive on a hot day. Add the cream and golden syr­up to a pan and heat until the mix­ture starts to bubble gently. Melt the chocol­ate into the mix­ture and once it’s smooth, add the flax­seed and cocoa. Freeze in a bowl for a couple of hours and then scoop out balls of the mix­ture with a tea­spoon and roll them in more flax­seed. Return the truffles to the freez­er while you wrestle with the mango glasses.

Turn the glasses out of their moulds, fill with lime ice cream and arrange the truffles on the side. Dec­or­ate with sprigs of mint. I poked a lovage straw in to suck up the mango as it melted, but I’m rather obsessed with lovage at the moment, so you don’t need to fol­low my lead on this one.

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